Higher temperatures will not leech it out any faster, and may even cook the cosmoline, solidifying it. If your oven is big enough, you can put your stock in the oven on LOW (around 175). It's what was used to put it into the wood, it's what can be used to remove it. HEAT is the absolute greatest way to remove cosmoline. Yes, the SURFACE is clean, but just a little deeper down, there lies lots of cosmoline. Like above, some people will use an oven cleaner, see the stock is clean, then put a finish on it. The surface of your stock is clean and oil free, making it much easier to leech out the loads more cosmoline deeper down in the stock. Some say 24 hours, I like an extra day ontop of that. If not, then allow your stock to dry for 2 days. When the surface of the wood is dry after 30 minutes, you can tell if it may need stripping again. Then sit the wet and cleaned stock in an area to dry for 30 minutes. While rinsing the stock, you should be using a stiff nylon brush or a soapless brillo pad to remove any more surface finish. Take the stock to a source of hot running water, I use a bathtub. It's not critical you get 100% out of the wood, StripX is designed to go completely innert once dry. After scraping, you need to wash off the stripper. After sitting 20 minutes, use a plastic scraper tool to scrap off the loosened gunk into a disposal bin. If It's dry, your need to apply more stripper or move to a cooler area.
Key is, if the stock is "wet", it's working. In the case of an M1, i'd dab it on heavily with a brush, let it work for 20 minutes in a cool area as heat will evaporate the stuff. StripX removes all types of finishes, from that glossy black oil buildup, stains, polyurethanes, shellac, and any type of varnish, it also removes paint from those "bubba" rifles found at pawn shops. It does not break down the fibers, or the natural glue found in the fibers of stocks. Unlike the cleaners posted above, StripX is chemically designed to be safely used on wood stocks.
The correct product to use for stripping is Klean Strip brand Strip X Not only that, but your stock then requires heavy soaking in water to get it out, and any that is left in the wood will continue to break it down, it may also attack the metal on your rifle when assembled. This chemical attacks the wood fibers in a stock, breaking the natural glue found in wood down too. LYE is very caustic stuff, just getting a whiff of it makes my lungs burn. They are grease cutters, and contain chemicals that are very harmful to wood. These items are all INAPROPRIATE for working on a stock. Purple Power, "Easy-Off" Oven Cleaner, or any other Kitchen degreaser. Lets talk about some items most commonly used in working on gunstocks, i'm listing the items that are not appropriate to use, or items that must be used carefully. You want to refinish the stock, not throw it away. This stock is very greasy, black with oil, and there are cracks in the side of the stock, missing pieces of wood or gouges.
For example, say we're working on stock for a Garand. So I thought i'd do a post on the basics of working on a gunstock. However, are their methods appropriate for the stock they're working on? Too often I see people using glue and oven cleaner on gunstocks, which makes me cry. Everybody will have their own opinion on what works best for them. There are hundreds of ways to go about doing any of these.